Every Way
Home.
Five ways to get there, and 8,000+ programs behind them. Whether you’re buying your first place, rebuilding one down to the studs, or qualifying on something other than a W‑2 — there is almost always a path. The work is finding the right one.
Purchase Where It Starts
Committing to a mortgage is the biggest financial decision most people ever make. So we start with the number you can actually live with — not the largest one you could technically qualify for — and work backward from there.
Conventional, FHA, VA, USDA, and jumbo all live under one roof here, which means we can compare them side by side instead of selling you the one product we happen to have.
How Much Down, Really?
The 20% rule is the most expensive myth in housing. Here’s where each program actually starts.
Minimums shown are program starting points for qualified borrowers — not an offer or a guarantee of terms. Your down payment, rate, and mortgage insurance depend on credit, income, the property, and current guidelines.
Refinance Make It Work Harder
A refinance is a tool, not a trophy. It only makes sense if it moves you toward something specific — a lower payment, an earlier payoff, cash for the next project, or one bill instead of five.
So before we quote anything, we ask what you’re actually trying to fix. Sometimes the honest answer is that you shouldn’t refinance yet, and we’ll tell you that too.
What Are You Trying To Fix?
Start with the goal. The right structure falls out of the answer.
A lower rate or a longer term can bring the monthly down. Stretching the term reduces the payment but can raise total interest over the life of the loan — we’ll show you both numbers before you decide.
Moving from a 30‑year to a 20 or 15 raises the payment but can cut years and a great deal of interest off the back end. Best when your income is steady and there’s room in the budget.
If your equity has grown — through payments, appreciation, or both — restructuring may remove mortgage insurance entirely. On FHA loans that usually means moving to a conventional program.
A cash‑out refinance converts equity into funds for a renovation, a down payment on the next property, or a business need — typically at a far lower rate than unsecured borrowing.
Rolling high‑interest balances into the mortgage can simplify things and lower the total monthly outlay. It also moves unsecured debt onto your home — a real tradeoff we’ll walk through honestly.
Moving to a fixed rate trades the possibility of a lower rate for a payment that can’t move on you. Worth pricing well before the first adjustment, not after.
Renovation Buy The Bones
Intown Atlanta is full of houses in the right neighborhood with the wrong kitchen. A renovation loan lets you buy one of those and fund the work in the same mortgage — instead of draining savings or running the whole thing up on a card.
The key difference: these loans are underwritten on what the home will be worth after the renovation, not what it appraises for the day you walk through it.
One Loan, Two Jobs
How the money actually moves from closing table to finished kitchen.
Including the listing everyone else scrolled past because of the photos.
A licensed contractor bids the scope. That bid becomes part of the loan file.
Purchase and renovation fund together, sized on the after‑renovation value.
Funds release in stages as work is completed and inspected. No second loan.
Construction From The Ground Up
Building is the one path where the financing structure matters as much as the rate. Handled badly, you close twice, pay two sets of costs, and re‑qualify at the finish line — after a year of your income, the market, and rates all having had a chance to change.
A one‑time‑close construction loan handles the lot, the build, and the permanent mortgage as a single transaction.
One Closing Or Two?
The same house, financed two different ways.
Specialty Built For Investors
Plenty of successful people don’t look good on a tax return. Write‑offs do their job, and then the same paperwork that saved you money in April makes a traditional underwriter nervous in October.
Specialty and non‑QM programs qualify you on your real financial picture — the rents a property brings in, what actually lands in your bank account, the assets you’ve built.
Ways We Can Get It Done
Different programs read different parts of your financial picture.
Qualifies on the property’s rental income rather than your personal income. The common route for investors scaling a portfolio.
Uses 12–24 months of deposits to establish income. Built for the self‑employed whose returns understate their cash flow.
Converts documented assets into qualifying income. Useful for retirees and anyone asset‑rich but light on W‑2 income.
Qualifies contractors and commission earners from 1099s or a prepared profit‑and‑loss statement.
Short‑term financing so you can close on the next home before the current one sells. No contingent offer required.
Programs with shorter seasoning requirements after a bankruptcy, short sale, or foreclosure than conventional guidelines allow.
That’s the short list. There are more. If your situation isn’t on it, it’s still worth a conversation.
Specialty Might Fit If…
- You’ve been self‑employed for years and your write‑offs make your income look smaller than it is.
- You’re buying investment property and want the rents — not your DTI — to carry the file.
- Your income is commission, 1099, or seasonal, and it doesn’t sit neatly in a two‑year average.
- You need to close on the next house before the current one sells.
- There’s a credit event in the rearview and conventional seasoning hasn’t run out yet.
- You have real assets but very little of it shows up as documented income.
Not Sure Which One Fits?
That’s the normal starting point — and it’s the part we’re good at. A few minutes on the phone usually narrows five options down to one.